Tutorial.

The Viking
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
4,803
Best answers
0
Coldy's displacement mapping tutorial.

Welcome to the displacement mapping tutorial. As most of you have noticed, ESF uses this technique on all of their maps now.
Want to make maps like that to ?, then this is the place to learn it.

First of all. You need Paint shop Pro (latest version if possible 9.0).
Second. You need Wally to import the textures to Valve Hammer.
Third. You need Valve Hammer Editor to use the technique. (like it isn't obvious ;)

We'll start off with paint shop pro.

A small warning before you start. The images you need in paint shop pro are very large. Low end systems might not be able to handle it or might crash during the process. So I recommend you to use a good computer, or save your image very often.

The first thing to do is find 3 textures you like. One for grass, one for rock and one for sand/dirt. Although these kind of textures are not always required. I recommend to use these as a starter. When you get the hang of it, you can use other textures to create different types of maps, like snow or desert maps.

When you have these textures. Copy/paste one of the textures in one image till you have a 2048x2048 image. Do this with all the other textures too. So you have 3 separate images of size: 2048x2048.

When you have done that we'll take the next step. Open Pain Shop Pro, and copy the grass image as a new image. Then promote it to a layer, this can be done in the right side of the screen. Right click on the file named background and promote it to a layer.

Then copy the rock image as a new layer. (right click on the image and paste as new layer) Do the same with the sand/dirt texture.

When you have done this, it's time to arrange the layers. From my experience I like the grass texture to be on top, then the rock texture and then sand/dirt texture.

Now we can start creating an environment. I recommend you create a sketch of how you want your map to look like before you begin.




The best thing to do is to create a grid line over the entire image. Use 128x128. You can create a gridline in the top of the screen. Click on the arrow pointing to the right and adjust the size to 128x128. The reason for using this gridline is to make sure it's fitting the gridline in Valve hammer. Otherwise it might result in stretched textures or textures that are misplaced.

Now that's said, select the eraser brush. In the left side of the screen. You can adjust it's settings in the top of the screen. I always use. | Size:40 Hardness:30 opacity:20/30|. You can leave the other options. Mess around with it to get the right type of eraser brush you like. Just make sure that it erases very smooth so you get a nice blending of different textures.

Left click on the your first layer to start. As you can see, the eraser smoothly removes parts of your first layer, thus revealing your second layer. Now, I always setup my cliffs first. So erase the grass at places where you do not want it to be Ex: cliffs, rocks or sandy parts.

When you have that done, you can start smoothing out the environment. I say that because it makes the map come to life if you do it the right way. As I said before you have removed the grass texture from places where you want cliffs, rocks or sandy parts. In the places where you want sand, erase the rock layer (default 2nd layer) Now you see the sand layer is revealed. Make sure the blending between the grass and sand is smooth.

Now you can outline every of your cliffs with sand as well. Make sure it's not on the cliffs (goes for the grass too) Cause that will make it look ugly. Too outline it in a pretty way, make sure the sand area around the cliffs differs in thickness. Also don't use the sand at the topside of the cliffs too much. This will make the map look very repetitive.

Just a reminder. The gridline isn't there for nothing. Make use of the lines, and make the erasing straight when you can.

When the environment is finished, save it as a .pspimage and as a .png file.

Open the .png file in Microsoft paint, and divide it in 16 parts that all the have the same size. 256x256. Give them easy names to make it easier for yourself. Ex: EG_01, EG_02, EG_03, EG_04 ,EG_05 etc. And save them as .png's!

Now when this is done. Make a folder in half-life\esf\textures. that has the exact same name as the map you will make. Then select all 16 .png images and copy them into the folder you just created. Ex: half-life\esf\texures\esf_namek_islands. This is for 24bit texture quality support.

Now that is explained, you should be able to create a nice environment. If you have any further questions about this, then go to the lower section of this tutorial.

Alrighty. By now, your environment should be done. The first thing we do now is open up wally. Create a new .wad file. Shouldn't be too hard just look in the list where you can select the file type in. It's name should be "half-life package wad3" or something like that. Now select all your 16 png images again and paste them as new in your new wadfile. Right click in your wadfile and then
paste as new. (note, this may take a while on slow computers, just be patient even when it seems to be stuck)

When all of the files are in your wadfile. Save it, and give it a random name.

Yes! We finally open Valve Hammer Editor. First go to your options and add the wadfile you created. (I'm not explaining Hammer in this since you need have plenty of experience with hammer to use this technique)

Now that is done. Create a new map. With quads of 128x128. Divide the quads in half to make the triangles. Then you can apply the texture to your brushes. When you have applied all of the textures, it should look the same as in Paint Shop Pro (only lower quality) Now use the triangle technique to lower raise cliffs, grassy plains or holes and rocks. The rest should be pretty obvious.







Will this be of use to you guys ?
 
New Member
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
1,547
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa
That'a a great tutorial.....lol, I just made a tutorial EXCACTLY like this 2 days ago, but it's for Grimreaper(Raeku), so it's in another language, lol, and mine is a bit more in depth, in other words I also have pics. Well great work, I hope this will make it much easier for new mappers.

But I've got a problem that has left me wondering for quite a few weeks(I only started using this a few weeks ago...), here's a pic that will explain all, guys like coldsteel, grega, etc. will understand, I hope you guys can help me with this problem, because it really limits me with the manipulation of my terrain.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/5854/hammerproblem5nh.jpg
 
The Viking
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
4,803
Best answers
0
Move the vertices back up and add another brush.
 
New Member
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
1,547
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa
Add another brush....hmmmm
Which texture will it be then? the top or bottom one? lol, I'm confused, sorry, I'm very....dumb(can't find better word)
 
The Viking
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
4,803
Best answers
0
It means, move both vertices back to the gridline where they take their correct textures again. After doing this, move the lower brush's vertice to the point where you have them in the screenshot. After this a gap will appear which you will fill up with a new brush.
 
New Member
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Jun 8, 2004
Messages
5,216
Best answers
0
Coldeh offers the team's holy grail of mapping to us peons? :O

Someone should sticky-punch this before it gets lost in the sands of time.
 
New Member
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
1,547
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa
YES! Please do it, I need this STICKIED!:p

Oh and that works, lol, thx very much, I thought about doing that, but I was a bit unsure, I can figure out some things by now, YAY! I'm independant.
 
The Viking
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
4,803
Best answers
0
Grega, when are you going to list it on esf-world ?
 
ESF Head Team Mapper
πŸ‘‘ Administrator
🌠 Staff
βœ”οΈ HL Verified
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ‚ Regular
Joined
Dec 25, 2001
Messages
3,619
Best answers
0
Location
Germany
it already is, though we need to reorganize that section soon
 
New Member
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
1,547
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa
What are you guys talking about? Grega hasn't even posted in this thread yet...0_o

Oh btw, I think you need to stickify this or add your first post to mega thread of mapping or something, it's very useful.
 
Member
βœ”οΈ HL Verified
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
Discord Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Messages
434
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg
donnierisk said:
That'a a great tutorial.....lol, I just made a tutorial EXCACTLY like this 2 days ago, but it's for Grimreaper(Raeku), so it's in another language, lol, and mine is a bit more in depth, in other words I also have pics. Well great work, I hope this will make it much easier for new mappers.
Yup.. but Coldeh did give me some extra info. The grids for example.

Thanks Coldeh!
 
Freelance Mappzor
βœ”οΈ HL Verified
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Nov 21, 2003
Messages
17,065
Best answers
0
Location
Stairing at the Abyss
donnierisk said:
What are you guys talking about? Grega hasn't even posted in this thread yet...0_o

Oh btw, I think you need to stickify this or add your first post to mega thread of mapping or something, it's very useful.
I asked CS if i could put the tutoreal on the list of ESF-worlds mapping tutoreals. And i already did that.

http://www.esf-world.com/index.php?c=mappingtut

Its the last one. And Ready is right. We need to reorganise those tuts.

*has an idea*

DJ catch me on MSN tomorow ^^

THX for the permition again CS <3
 
Member
βœ”οΈ HL Verified
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
Discord Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Messages
434
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg
Ok, I know this is going to be a noob Q, but how do you split the texture into 16 256x256 parts?

Do you do it manually, cut 256x256 sqaures out of the image?

Or is there a simple easy way out?
 
Freelance Mappzor
βœ”οΈ HL Verified
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Nov 21, 2003
Messages
17,065
Best answers
0
Location
Stairing at the Abyss
You slice it up part by part. No other way.

But there are ways of doing it easier. Espacialy with Paintshop XD
 
New Member
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
1,547
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa
NO! Grim, not 256X256, it's 512X512, there is an easier way, but like cold steel said in the first post, go into paint and open your 2048 image and then manually copy and paste it into wally, will take a while because wally is slow, or it's my cpu.

Well remember to make a .wad to put it in, and I already have your .wad waiting, you forgot to finish downloading it... -_-
 
The Viking
πŸš‚ Steam Linked
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
4,803
Best answers
0
Yep, don't do it in any fancy programs, it will just eat up your performance.
 
New Member
πŸ’» Oldtimer
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
1,547
Best answers
0
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa
Yeah, choosing each 512 block isn't the thing that takes time, it's wally, I select the next part of the image while it's busy copying the other one, so I don't waste time in selecting the brush afterwards, wally might just go to a white screen when copying, but only wally, the rest of windows is fine, but come online GRIM! I HAVE THE .WAD.

Oh and cold, pls stickify this if you want, nice thread this. alot of info now.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom